Monday, October 4, 2010

Thoroseal - Acryl-60


16 Oct 2010

This is a posting from somebody who doesn't recommend Acryl-60. I saw too many people that did use Acryl-60 and only one who didn't. For those who want to read and not sure if you should go with Acryl-60. In my opinion and I was undecided as well. I convinced myself for $25, it was worth going with it and I am glad I did. I think the mixture of Thoroseal and Acryl-60 turned out great. I am still not 100% convinced that Acryl-60 is needed, but I am happy with the results of using it. For $25, it is not like the company is trying to gouge you like Pond Armor. The actual Thoroseal cost $32 a bag. So for two bags of Thoroseal + Acryl-60, cost me the same price as a Quart of Pond Armor. I was able to do two complete coats of Thoroseal over my entire pond for $100. Had I gone with Pond Armor, it would of likely cost me $300 - $600 which is a rip off.

For those living in Vancouver, BC or close by, I went across the border and pre-ordered Thoroseal and Acryl-60 from ACE Hardware in Blaine. Super friendly service and they take your order over the phone. Highly recommended. For those living in Washinging or the US, just order from an ACE Hardware Store or a store that carries Thoroseal.

There is a place in Burnaby, BC which carries Thoroseal, they more expensive at $54 a bag, but saves you crossing the border. They open Mon-Fri.

Universal Concrete Accessories Ltd.
2450 Alpha Avenue
Burnaby, BC V5C 5L6
tel:  604.299.8551
fax: 604.299.3343
toll free: (B.C. only) 1.800.665.6200


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http://forum.doityourself.com/ponds-water-gardens/289276-pondless-waterfall.html

01-06-07 07:31 PM #6
Clayton Douglas
Clayton Douglas is offline Member

Join Date
Jan 2007
Posts
9

PumpGuy

Very good question. I forgot to tell you one of the most important aspects of concrete construction, the sealer. I found this product over 18 years ago called Thoroseal. There may be other equally as good products out there, however, if you find something that works great, why experiment or change?

(This is not a paid promotion of Thoroseal, I do not sell Thoroseal, nor do I have any investments in this product.) Now listen to me carefully. The manufacturers of Thoroseal recommend that you use it with an admix called Acryl-60. I used to follow their recommendation and mix in into the thoroseal. This is what I discovered about eight years ago.

When you mix in Acryl-60 (at $25-$30 a gal.) it turns the Thoroseal into a consistency of latex paint. It does not soak into the concrete. It only covers the surface, and when it cures, it becomes hard. When you bump it with a rock or drop one on it, it chips, like paint, exposing the concrete underneath.

Please, forgo the Acryl-60, mix the Thoroseal very sloppy so it soaks into the concrete surface. In this consistancy, Thoroseal soaks into the surface up to 1/16th to 1/8 of an inch. Now when it is bumped with a rock you still see the sealer. Go back over the area as you go, applying the second coat at the same time.

If you wait until the first coat cures, the second will not stick. Thoroseal is not only renders the concrete permenately waterproof, it is non toxic to fish.. It locks in the lime or alkali, making repeated acid cleaning and rinsing unnecessary.

Yes, I know what your thinking. How could I possibly know more about a product than the manufacturer? Well they mave not used Thoroseal for over 18 years and had the same opportunity to experiment with its use. I have never had a leak occure in any of my over 1,900 ponds or waterfalls.

Oh, yes. Application... use a roofing brush or household broom to apply. On a hot day, wet down the concrete first, so that the Thotoseal does not dry on contact and can find time to soak into the surface. Also you can make it even sloppier.

Just a note of special of interest: If the Acryl-60 people do not appreciate me sharing this little secrete on the web, they will absolutely hate this proclamation. I discovered what that $25-$30 gal Acryl-60 is! Common white carpenters glue, watered down to the consistency of whole milk. Can you top that? One gallon of carpenters glue at home depot, in the concrete admix department, cost $3 to $4, and when you add water to dillute the thick glue to the consistancy of Acryl-60, you end up with 4 GALLONS!

Now I know what you are thinking PumpGuy, you can make more money selling admix than you can building ponds and waterfalls. Yes the dobies go on the bottom of the rebar! THAT WAS A JOKE, RIGHT?

Google "thoroproducts" and then request a supplier near you... you want the "waterproofing" section and the "foundation sealer"

Best to you my new friend...Happy koi, peace and joy. FallGuyPro

4 comments:

  1. I had a sad plastic lined pond we inherited.

    Local aquatic stores had concrete solutions costing a fortune. I came across a chap advocating thoroseal and acryl60.

    You say save the $25... well after weeks of prep, moving the wild life and plants I would not of risked saving the small sum you mention.

    To the point - we live in the UK and you get freezing in the winter, hot sun in summer and the acryl60 was for freeze thaw performance.

    You might be right but my pond is 100% watertight and was relined for around $150.

    Would 100% recommend!

    Jerri Smith
    Sussex
    UK

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  2. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  3. Concrete ponds give you a safe place to store water for a garden. They also offer decorative benefits and allow you to grow certain plants and raise fish. Building your own concrete pond saves money.
    Roof Sydney

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  4. I am now 4 years into building and expanding a massive pond throughout my 1/3 acre property. The original build was 25 ft x 12 ft main pond, 6 ft x 35 ft stream, and 3 ft x 20 ft cascade... all 3-5 ft deep... and done by hand. I used EPDM lined over and under with 8 oz non-woven geotextile fabric. The current expansion will include a 25 ft x 30 ft x 6 ft pond for swimming and edible fish and a 2 ft x 10 ft cascade and 60 ft stream terminating in a 4 ft x 10 ft x 3 ft pond. I have been dreading the cost (and weight) of the liner and wondering if I might do better using soil cement (subsoil mixed with an adequate portion of lime and Portland cement), which I have gained a lot of experience mixing up recently, but was concerned about how to properly and safely seal it. This post has arrived at just the right time and will same me a whole lot of headache, backache, and cash. Thank you!!!

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